ETA: Ravelry have decided to delete my pattern there that links here because it is not all my own work. One person has already cast on and many have queued it. My message to the person that has cast on and my updated description on the pattern there (which hopefully people will see on their queue before it is deleted:
Please note that Ravelry are going to delete my pattern because it is too derivative of “Fetch !” (i.e. not all my own work – isn’t all knitting? LOL). It will stay on my blog though at Dog Bone Knitted in-the-round (links here)
This is an adaptation of “Fetch !” by Kris Knits so that I could knit it in the round. Having knit one “Fetch !” flat, as the pattern states, I realised that my seaming/sewing would not make for as ‘clean’ a finished bone and so I spent a bit of time developing an in-the-round version of the pattern. I also found the finishing bone-end to be longer than the start-end and so adapted the rows knitted so that the ends matched more symmetrically. What? Me a perfectionist? LOL!
I have contacted Kris on Ravelry, her blog and by email asking if she would like to add my pattern version to her pattern and asking if it is okay for me to publish this but I have not had a reply as yet. I finished this about a week ago and so I am publishing it while I remember to (and so that I can update my Ravelry project to point here instead of to “Fetch !”).
Yarn: any worsted weight kitchen cotton yarn.
Fibre-fill or scrap yarn for stuffing
CO 12 sts for magic-loop on a circular needle with the needle-tips together so that 6 st are on each needle-tip using Judy’s Magic Cast On or similar.
Row 1: K all sts
Row 2 and all even rows: K all sts
Row 3: (K1, M1, K4, M1, K1) x 2 16 sts
Break yarn and push sts onto the cable or back away from the needle-tips..
CO 12 more sts on the needle in the same way as before.
Repeat rows 1-3 but don’t break the yarn (I slip the other 16 st to keep the magic-loop functioning).
Row 4: Slide them together and K all sts (32 sts)
Tip: After knitting the first 8 sts Grab the tail yarn (from the next piece) with the working yarn and K 1 st, this will secure it. Then drop the tail yarn and continue the row with working yarn. Be sure to treat that stitch as one on the next row.
Rows 5-8: K32
Row 9: K1, SSK, K10, K2tog, K1
Row 10: K28
Row 11: K1, SSK, K8, K2tog, K1
Row 12: K24
Row 13: K1, SSK, K6, K2tog, K1
Row 14: K20
Row 15, K1, SSK, K4, K2tog, K1
Row 16: K16
Rows 17-28: K16
Row 29: K1, M1, K6, M1, K1
Row 30: K20
Row 31: K1, M1, K8, M1, K1
Row 32: K24
Row 33: K1, M1, K10, M1, K1
Row 34: K28
Row 35: K1, M1, K12, M1, K1
Row 36: K32
Rows 37-40: K32
Work the first 8 st on the needle and the last 8 st on the other half of the needle in the round, slipping the other 16 st in between:
Row 41: K1, SSK, K2, K2tog, K1, sl16, K1, SSK, K2, K2tog, K1
Row 42: K6, sl16, K6.
Row 43: cast off / close 12 sts e.g. Kitchener. Break yarn.
Join yarn to remaining 16 sts and repeat rows 41-42 (but without slipping any stitches of course).
Stuff bone then cast off / close, e.g. Kitchener as for row 43.